Toledo: a walk through the Imperial City

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Toledo: capital of forgotten empiresToledo: capital of forgotten empires

Talking about Toledo requires, in addition to reverential respect, opening the window of the everyday - metaphorically speaking - and letting the fresh air of the irreducibly legendary caress us.

History and traditionHistory and tradition

Toledo, in the mouth of one of our best known and at the same time most criticized writers, Fernando Sánchez Dragó, contains, indisputably, an important part of the heart of that Magical Spain that refuses to die.

Redoubt of art and mysteryRedoubt of art and mystery

Suffice this statement to add that Toledo, with all its deservedness, is one of those places that leave a mark, because the more you visit, I assure you, the more you want to return.

The beauty of its immemorial doorsThe beauty of its immemorial doors

Not surprisingly, other writers, such as the German Erich María Remarque - friend and according to him, a disciple of the great French sculptor, Rodin, and the author, in addition, of an extensive literary work, among which the anti-war allegation stands out, exposed in his novel 'No news on the front' - they said, completely amazed, that Toledo was and continues to be - the latter I add - the undisputed capital of forgotten empires.

Medieval arch in Angel StreetMedieval arch in Angel Street

And it is not for less, because in Toledo, you can believe it, the muds of History lead us, inevitably, to an exciting journey through the pools of Legend.

The enigmatic Devil’s AlleyThe enigmatic Devil's Alley

And there is not a corner in Toledo, at least in old Toledo, which is the one that is really worth visiting, that does not have an anecdote, a legend, a footer between reality and the fantastic.

The Alley of HellThe Alley of Hell

I would like, and for the purpose that does not remain, to transmit to you with the images that I show you here -poor and scarce, indeed, with all that Toledo can offer- part of those sensations that led to another of our great writers, Ramón María del Valle Inclán, to say what Toledo has felt, under the crumbling arches, the passing of death, the density of centuries and the flow of hours like the sand of a clock ... (1).

Narrow and mysterious streetsNarrow and mysterious streets

Nor should they be surprised, if I affirm that Toledo is a city of angels and demons - as the writer Dan Brown would like to say - since if you ever walk through its narrow and sometimes dimly lit alleys, you will discover a street or crossing of the Angel, but also two mysterious alleys, which will attract your attention: the Devil's and the Hell's.

The medieval houses of the Order of the TempleThe medieval houses of the Order of the Temple

These last two, curiously, are not far from the Templar church of San Miguel el Alto and the Houses that the Order also had in the vicinity, which are still standing and whose facades retain, attacked by rust, the medallions that contained , as a sign of belonging, the type of cross most used by them: the kick cross or paté cross.

In June, the houses of Toledo are decked out for Corpus ChristiIn June, the houses of Toledo are decked out for Corpus Christi

They should not be surprised, in addition, if during their walk they observe, on the facades of many private houses, an infinity of historical remains, from different times and origins, reused as fillers and if you ask any countryman, they will not hesitate to tell you that they are remains that the waters of the river Tagus - that same river, which like Baudelaire's Devil, passes through Toledo melancholy and taciturn - returns to the banks with the floods.

Mosque of Christ of the LightMosque of Christ of the Light

But Toledo is also and allow me the expression, a pandemonium of Art, which welcomed the feverish activity of painters such as Domenico Teotocopuli, el Greco, who chose to work here, possibly tired of suffering the wrath of the irate King Felipe II and in whose house, Conveniently converted into a museum and located in the heart of the Jewish quarter, they can admire, rather than photograph, that explosion of subliminal enigmas found in one of his best-known masterpieces: 'the burial of the Count of Orgaz'.

A panoramic view of the Zocodover SquareA panoramic view of the Zocodover Square

On the other hand, many traces remain of the strong Jewish presence in Toledo, among which stand out, converted into a museum, especially two synagogues: El Tránsito and Santa María la Blanca, which in no way will leave your artistic expectations indifferent. .

Zocodover Square: sun and terracesZocodover Square: sun and terraces

Nor will that beautiful Arab mosque, converted into a church by order of King Alfonso VI, after the conquest of Toledo in 1086, under the legendary dedication of the Cristo de la Luz, which should not be confused with the miraculous Christ of la Vega, so popular and revered by the people of Toledo.

Towards the cathedralTowards the cathedral

Do not think that I am forgetting, at this point, those two great tributes to creativity and fascination, which are the monastery of San Juan de los Reyes and of course, that flagship of magnificence and mystery, which is the imposing cathedral of Santa María.

The magnificent Transparent of the Cathedral of ToledoThe magnificent Transparent of the Cathedral of Toledo

Particularly and apart from other considerations, of the monastery of San Juan de los Reyes I recommend that you let yourself be carried away by the hieratic tranquility of its double cloister, noting, in the one below, the picaresque baroque representations of its capitals and once in the above, the elegant and splendid Mudejar coffered ceiling that crowns it.

Toledo Cathedral: Chapel of San IldefonsoToledo Cathedral: Chapel of San Ildefonso

And about the cathedral: what could I tell you about a place specially designed to let yourself be carried away by the senses and spend hours and hours contemplating, until suffering an excess of Art, leading to the so-called 'Sthendal syndrome'?

Dragons in the vault of the Chapel of San IldefonsoDragons in the vault of the Chapel of San Ildefonso

But above all, I recommend that you pay special attention to the rotunda, a wonderful work of art in itself, which is known by the name of Transparente - in the crypt you can see the relics of Santa Úrsula - the magnificent Chapel of the Constable, Don Álvaro de Luna, located opposite this and once in the cloister, the immeasurable Chapel of San Ildefonso, in whose magnificent vault and apart from the paintings that cover the walls, you will also see superb dragon heads represented.

Interiors of the synagogue of Santa María la BlancaInteriors of the synagogue of Santa María la Blanca

I understand that once you have arrived here, you may be tired of the walk that I have tried to recommend you, if you really want to imbibe the true spirit of this capital of forgotten empires, referred to by Remarque.

Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes: cloisterMonastery of San Juan de los Reyes: cloister

But it would be a lack of consideration, if I did not speak, even above, of that magnificent Alcázar, located in front of the emblematic Hotel Alfonso VI, an inn that was and continues to be, of multiple stars of Culture in general, at whose feet, some magnificent reproductions of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, it must always remind them that they are in La Mancha Cervantes, the one whose famous song says something like: 'in La Mancha La Manchega do not get upset, you are in the land of Don Quixote'.

Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes: Mudejar coffered ceiling of the upper floor of the cloisterMonastery of San Juan de los Reyes: Mudejar coffered ceiling of the upper floor of the cloister

And of course, the main artery of Toledo, which is none other than that same and popular Plaza de Zocodover, which annually receives thousands of visitors, as it also received in the past, the visit and the adventures of that stormy brotherhood, known as' the brotherhood of Toledo ', formed mainly by three figures, whose names, surely, will not leave you indifferent: Salvador Dalí, Luis Buñuel and Federico García Lorca.

One of the oldest in Toledo: the Hotel Alfonso VIOne of the oldest in Toledo: the Hotel Alfonso VI

From here, my dear friends, I recommend that you practice on your own another way of living Toledo: that of its magnificent restoration, where if you allow me and to finish, I recommend you not to overlook the sublime selection of Homemade pastry, which I am sure will be for your palate, 'peccata minuta', as our Italian friends would say.

Don Quixote and Sancho Panza stand guard in front of the AlcázarDon Quixote and Sancho Panza stand guard in front of the Alcázar

Bibliography:

(1) Ramón María del Valle Inclán: ‘The wonderful lamp’, La Felguera Editores, First Edition, November 2017, page 117.

Small Photographic Selection:

Panoramic through the Alarcones’s DoorPanoramic through the Alarcones's Door The esoteric Sun’s DoorThe esoteric Sun's Door Select gastronomySelect gastronomy Exquisite pastriesExquisite pastries Streets full of charmStreets full of charm the famous Toledo steelthe famous Toledo steel And also the morbid: the relics of Santa ÚrsulaAnd also the morbid: the relics of Santa Úrsula Toledo: a world to discoverToledo: a world to discover

Related Movie:

NOTICE: Both the text and the photographs that accompany it, as well as the video that illustrates it, are my exclusive intellectual property and therefore, are subject to my Copyright.


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Thank-you very much

He vuelto a ver está publicación, que ya tiene varios días, y te diré mi opinión en carupanero:
Demasiado vergataria.
Hay otra formas de decirlo en ciertas jergas de Venezuela.
En malandro:
Está sádica
En maracucho:
Está mollejúa.
En algunos barrios de Caracas:
Está cartelua.
En los años 70, alguna chama de Caracas de diría:
Está de espanto y brinco.
Un intelectualsoo diría:
Me quedé como mariposa en museo.
Un colombiano diría:
Pero que berraquera de post.

Ya peregrino, está bueno.
Yo solo diría, que es impresionante, que eres un duro de la cámara.

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Ja, ja, ja bueno, tampoco hay que exagerar, como verás a los Clint Eastwood de la cámara y la pluma, como dices, pana, no se los aprecia por estos barrios. Pero se agradece siempre el cumplido. Un fuerte abrazo

Hola mano , en el vídeo se ve el callejón del diablo y el callejón del infierno , supongo que es por estar entre las edificaciones tan altas , bueno estoy especulando , me gustó ver en la última parte la especie de lago , y también escuche que te echaron los perros , es una broma ya sabes que tengo un humor muy negro :) esta expresión significa que te están alagando por que le atraes a alguien .
Un abrazo , por cierto las personas se ven muy bien vestidas , me gusta ver eso .

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Hola, mano. Realmente no capto el sentido de tu comentario, no sé exactamente a qué te refieres con lo de que me echaron los perros o que me están alargando porque le atraigo a alguien, pero en fin. Lo que ves no es un lago, es el río Tajo, que circunda la ciudad y en cuanto a los callejones del Diablo y del Infierno, se llaman así porque tienen sus leyendas relacionadas con ese personaje y ese lugar en concreto. Un abrazo

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Hola mano , no me hagas caso en ocasiones mi sentido del humor es pesado , pero te explico , en el vídeo escuché el ladrido de un perro por eso te dije el chiste de echar los perros .
Un abrazo manito DIOS te bendiga

Hola qué ganas de que termine en el confinamiento perimetral que tenemos para poder seguir visitando España.
Un saludo

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Pues la verdad es que sí. No sé cómo lo vas llevando tú, pero yo estoy ya que me tiro por las paredes. Saludos

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Cansadísima, esta Semana Santa ni a la sierra hemos podido subir. Ánimo confío en que queda poco o eso quiero creer.

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Esperemos que sí.