This is a photo of me taken around 2004, back when I used to charge on a bodyboard. They were mostly closeouts coming through that day, but I managed to grab a couple of sneaky ones and got some of the best barrels of my life.
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holy shit, that´s a wave! which beach?
Thanks! It's at Puerto Escondito, Mexico
I think you need Australian blood to be not scared and enjoy this wave :-).