It may be hard to tell how many poems and allusive stories there are about Yangzhou. For thousands of years, the ancients have constantly chanted in favour of a city, which can only mean that the city is too charming, but Yangzhou today does not seem to be a very famous city, with popularity far lower than that of the north, Guangzhou and Shenzhen, and not as good as the provincial cities of Nanjing, Suzhou and Wuxi, etc. In today's economic status in terms of ranking, Yangzhou's GDP in 2018 only ranked 7th among the 13 prefecture-level cities in Jiangsu Province, located behind Xuzhou, which belongs to not have a slippery position in the middle.
In the Tang Dynasty, Yangzhou was the first and Yizhou (Chengdu) was the second. After the An-shi Rebellion, the economic status of the north declined and Yangzhou became the most prosperous industrial and commercial city in the country, surpassing Chang'an and Luoyang in economic status. In the Qing Dynasty, Yangzhou's salt merchants were so rich that they earned one-sixth of the Qing government's revenue. Of course, Yangzhou in ancient times was not exactly the same as Yangzhou today, and it was not always the richest city, but it was indeed a prosperous and wealthy city for a thousand years, from Wu Yue in the Spring and Autumn to Guangling in the Qin and Han Dynasties, from Jiangdong in the Six Dynasties to Yangzhou in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, from Jianghuai in the Song and Yuan Dynasties to the salt merchants in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Yangzhou was not only rich but also rich in humanities and culture. So you will not be surprised to see that there are so many poems praising Yangzhou.
I entered the city with longing and longing for Yangzhou, and for the sake of time, I could only walk around because I believe that I will definitely come back. Yangzhou in March is the most beautiful season. If you go to Yangzhou, what are the places and experiences you can't miss?
The history of the canal is the history of Yangzhou city. In the 26th year of King Jing of Zhou (486 BC), King Fuchai of Wu defeated the Yue Kingdom and captured King Goujian of Yue. The Wu army took advantage of the victory to cross the river and annexed the Gan State in the north of the river. The Zuo Zhuan records this in seven words: "Wu Cheng Gan, which communicates with the river and Huai." These 7 words recorded two important events: Wu built a new capital on the basis of Ganzhou city and dug Ganga ditch, an ancient canal and a city was born together.
During the Sui and Tang dynasties, Yangzhou became a city of great wealth due to the Grand Canal, and its historical status reached the peak of "Yang Yi Er". With the prosperity of the Grand Canal, Yangzhou prospered for more than a thousand years until the end of the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China, when water transportation was gradually replaced.
On June 22, 2014, the Grand Canal of China was officially inscribed on the World Heritage List. Yangzhou has 1 river (Yangzhou section of the Huaiyang Canal, including 6 river sections) and 10 heritage sites listed as World Heritage Sites, making it the city with the most Grand Canal heritage sites in Jiangsu Province and even in China. So when you visit Yangzhou, you should not miss the historical sites related to the Grand Canal in the first place.
Yangzhou's iconic scenic spot, the Slim West Lake, is one of the World Heritage sites of the Grand Canal of China, so what is the relationship between the Slim West Lake and the Grand Canal?
The Qing dynasty salt merchants who made Yangzhou rich by the canal were the main architects of the landscape.
Speaking of salt merchants, in the Qing Dynasty, the word salt merchant is often equated with Yangzhou, to a certain extent, the prosperity and leisure of the city of Yangzhou, the rich salt merchants connived out, the salt merchants are so rich that an ordinary family man earns enough money to feed a family, resulting in Yangzhou "abundant" in a large number of idle people, no There was no work, nothing to do, so "in the morning the skin was covered with water, at night the water was covered with skin".
There are still many Qing Dynasty salt merchant houses in Yangzhou, the more famous ones are Lu's, Wang's and Jia's. Lu's salt merchant house is not only an attraction but also a restaurant where you can taste authentic Huaiyang cuisine if you are interested, while Jia's salt merchant house is not yet open.
Tianning Temple Palace is also a Grand Canal heritage site, where Kangxi and Qianlong both visited during their southern tour along the canal, and where Qianlong built his second southern tour with a palace, imperial garden and Wenhui Pavilion.
Yangzhou's world heritage rivers include the Yangzhou section of the Huaiyang Canal and the Yangzhou Slim West Lake. Heritage sites include the Liuborough Water Mitigation Lock in Baoying, the Yu Cheng Stage in Gaoyou, the Shaobo Ancient Embankment in Jiangdu, the Shaobo Pier in Jiangdu, the Tianning Temple Palace in Yangzhou, the Yangzhou Garden, the Yangzhou Salt Industry Historic Site, the Wang Lumen House in Yangzhou, the Yangzhou Salt Temple, and the Lu Shaoxu House in Yangzhou.
You have heard of Suzhou gardens, but not necessarily heard of Yangzhou gardens, the "Yangzhou Picture Boat Record" has "Hangzhou to win the lake and mountain, Suzhou to win the market, Yangzhou to win the garden pavilion, the three confront each other, no distinction" sentence, it can be seen, the Qing Qianlong Jiaqing period, the world is the Yangzhou gardens, not Suzhou gardens. Today, although Yangzhou gardens are not as famous as Suzhou gardens, Yangzhou gardens and Suzhou gardens are really different from each other.
There are a lot of gardens in Yangzhou, the first two are the Garden of the Gods and the Garden of He, which are the two most visited and well-known gardens in Yangzhou, and the Garden of the Gods is known as "the only one in China" for its four-season rockery in spring, summer, autumn and winter.
The He Garden, also known as the "Sending Tsunami Villa", brings the leisure and elegance of Yangzhou to the extreme, with the "moon in the water" and "flowers in the mirror", and the ethereal landscape all being reflected here.
In addition to the two famous gardens, there are many small and exquisite gardens in Yangzhou, the exquisite and delicate garden of Wang's Little Garden.
The Yi pu, on the other hand, is a quiet place in the middle of a winding path. It is also a hotel, so if you are interested in staying overnight in a Yangzhou garden, this is an option.
It is actually the private garden of Zhou Fu, the governor of the two rivers during the Guangxu period. Compared with the crowded He Garden, this place is much more peaceful, so you can really experience the leisure and elegance of the garden.
Enjoying Qiong Hua in March
In Yangzhou in March, of course, you have to see flowers, but March in the lunar calendar is roughly equivalent to April in the Gregorian calendar, and in Yangzhou in spring, the flowers are in full bloom, but "a flower in Weiyang, there are no similar flowers in the four seas", "a hundred flowers in the world, but Qionghua is rare in the sky", the ancient people's praise of Yangzhou As the city flower of Yangzhou, Qiong Hua blooms from mid to late April to early May every year. Unfortunately, when I was there, the flowers were not yet in bloom, but if you are going, don't miss a few places to see them.
The first one is Qiong Hua Guan, which has an inseparable origin with Qiong Hua. The name of Qiong Hua Guan comes from the fact that there was an unparalleled Qiong Hua plant in the Guan during the Song Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, when Ouyang Xiu was the governor of Yangzhou, he built the "Wushuang Pavilion" in the view to feed the flowers. Every spring, the flowers in Qiong Hua Guanyuan are in full bloom, and the beauty of the flowers is very attractive.
Both Song Emperor Renzong and Song Emperor Xiaozong had transplanted Qiong Hua to the imperial court of the capital, but they were not allowed to live and had to be relocated back to Yangzhou. Throughout the Song dynasty, the ancient Qiongqi flowers survived the calamities in Yangzhou, but lived forever. During the Yuan Dynasty, the Mongolian general Aki broke through Yangzhou with 100,000 soldiers and killed and plundered the plant, which was "unique in the world" and mysteriously withered.
The second is Yangzhou Daming Temple, which has a plant of Qiong Hua planted during the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, more than 300 years ago. Walking around the temple and enjoying the rhythm and vitality of this "old ageratum" will be a unique experience for you.
Of course, there are not only Qiong Hua, but also the Ping Shan Hall built by Ouyang Xiu, the fifth spring in the world, the three imperial tablets of Qianlong, the Memorial Hall of Jian Zhen, etc. There is also a nine-story tall Qiling Pagoda.
Of course, the best place to enjoy the flowers in Yangzhou is the famous Slim West Lake.
Not only the flowers, but the whole spring of the Thin West Lake is a sea of flowers.
In the morning, the skin is covered with water, at night the water is covered with skin
This is probably the most widely known phrase for Yangzhou, besides the "March of the Flowers". The "morning skin wrapped in water" is about Yangzhou people go to the teahouse in the morning to drink tea, "evening water wrapped in skin" is about the life of Yangzhou people go to the bathroom at night to take a bath. If there is one experience you can't miss in Yangzhou, it's this one.
Yangzhou people's morning from "water wrapped in skin", Fuchun, Yechun, Jinchun, Republican Spring, well-known tea house called "spring"? In fact, not quite, there are also more local people go to the Garden Teahouse and so on.
As Guangdong people, of course, it is not the first time to drink morning tea, Guangdong and Yangzhou morning tea have their own characteristics, on the category or more Guangdong, but most of the tea points in Yangzhou Guangdong did not.
The crab buns with straws, boiled shredded pork and hot shredded pork, one of the symbols of Huaiyang cuisine, are all must-order dishes.
Here again, the difference between hot and boiled shredded pork is quite big. Boiled shredded pork is about using chicken soup, even if the restaurant does not really use chicken soup, it still has to make the color of chicken soup.
Yangzhou fried rice probably does not belong to the category of water wrapped in skin, but before the water wrapped in skin at night, you have to fill your stomach, an authentic Yangzhou fried rice with a lion's head, can definitely comfort your lonely heart and thirsty stomach.
Some friends say that Hangzhou does not have Hangzhou xiaolongbao, Lanzhou does not have Lanzhou ramen, Chongqing does not have Chongqing chicken pot, then Yangzhou has no Yangzhou fried rice? Yangzhou not only has Yangzhou fried rice, but is also the most authentic.
When night falls, the experience of "water wrapped in skin" starts to turn to "water wrapped in skin".
In order to experience the most authentic Yangzhou "water covered skin", I chose the old Yangzhou bathhouse, which opened in 1930, with two Roman columns at the entrance inscribed with "special steam water basin soup, sanitary white stone pond".
On one side of the wall is the introduction of "water wrapped skin", and on the other side is the "Yangzhou Bathhouse".
Ordinary large room bathing 10 yuan, rubbing 12 yuan, there is no photo inside, text to introduce.
The old bathroom for the general public, especially southerners may not be used to, a row of recliners in the large room, laid on top of the towel is very old, there is a locker above the recliner, you can put clothes, the large room has two sets of small color TV about 20 years ago. After stripping, walk into the bathroom, the bathroom is divided into two parts, one is the shower room, there is a scrubbing table, and then in the white stone pond, a large bath, the water temperature is very hot, the whole body can be immersed in it looks like a familiar customer, anyway, my first time is not to get down.
Rubbing to give this piece of bamboo to the rubbing master, at first I did not know, the bamboo piece put in the locker, wondering the master always do not give me a rubbing, and then found that others have given the bamboo piece to the master, I ran out to get to the master, rubbing the feeling and my experience in the Northeast is not much different. The old bathroom, the environment is almost, but it is the most grounded experience.
Strolling through the alleys of Yangzhou
When I sent down the first circle of friends in Yangzhou, many friends will share my feelings, especially in Yangzhou's alleys, China has nearly 300 prefecture-level cities, many cities have a long history, but you have to go to these cities to find traces of history, often disappointed to return. Yangzhou is different, Yangzhou has preserved a large number of streets and alleys, walking in which you can not even see the scenery of high-rise buildings, a celebrity homes, historical buildings, street corner snacks unexpectedly encountered, this feeling is too good.
These decades, China's development is too fast, resulting in our souls can not keep up with our pace, many memories of the good is difficult to find, so we will like the alley, because that is hidden in our hearts a touch of memory.
Most cities have torn down the city's history, but the good thing is that Yangzhou has not. You can walk through the streets and alleys without slowing down, and you can look for those déjà vu scenes.
There is Dong Guan Street, a famous historical and cultural street in China that is full of tourists, and there are also more alleys that hide the city and its history.
In one such narrow alley, you can come across the former residence of Zhu Ziqing, who wrote "The Backdrop".
The former residence is not big and open for free, but what makes me happier is that the left and right neighbors of Zhu Ziqing's former residence are still residential houses and such an alley is alive.
You can always meet a lot in the alleys of Yangzhou, and do you know the story of this mansion surrounded by tourists on Dong Guan Street? The answer is inside this article.
Every small street and alley has an unexpected story and walking through such an alley, you can inadvertently come across another ancient acacia from the Tang Dynasty.
What's more surprising is that the story of "A Dream of Nanke" you know happened here, and such a chance encounter is really a lot of surprises.
Out of the alley, you may come across another ancient building that has been standing here for hundreds of years.
Even at busy intersections, the iconic old buildings are still there, they do not affect the traffic, and even become the symbol of a city.
I love Yangzhou's alleys so much. It's so rare to find so many historic neighborhoods preserved in such an economically developed city.
Once rich salt merchants, who built high walled mansions, are now quietly located in these alleys, where the prosperity has fallen away and the stories of the buildings still continue.
In front of an old well, neighbours are chatting. They were born and grew up here, and are familiar with every street and alley, and know every neighbour here.
When you meet a historical building and walk into it, you find out that there are so many stories inside.
This hostel, which is still open for business, was used by Xiao Chuyin, Yun Daying, Yu Dafu, Mei Lanfang, Sun Ke and Chen Yi, and was even a comfort station for the Japanese army at one time.
The streets of Yangzhou are also very pro-people, the roads are not wide, there is no barrier in the middle, there are small stores on both sides, and the traffic looks a bit chaotic, yet orderly.
I don't like those cities where you have to go a long way to cross the street and then get on the flyover and drill the tunnel, I hate those cities where the street stores are closed, and I also hate those cities where even the night markets are made neat and tidy.
Sometimes, when I encounter such a city, I am surprised to be a little moved, this is the city where I live, this is the city that belongs to the local people.
You can buy a few pounds of fruits and vegetables on the street after work, or you can buy half an old goose at the lo-mei stall at the intersection. The cab driver doesn't even have to get out of the car, and the small shopkeeper you know can hand you a pack of cigarettes ...... These scenes are very casual and warm.
The city should not only have high-rise buildings, there should also be small streets and alleys, the city should not only have department stores, there should also be small stalls and vendors, the city should not only have high-end hotels, there should also be street stalls, so that the city is the soul.
Suddenly I also found that I wandered around Yangzhou for most of the city, it seems that I did not see a pedestrian overpass, I do not know whether there is a pedestrian overpass in Yangzhou city, Yangzhou friends can tell me? I don't know if there are any pedestrian bridges in Yangzhou, can Yangzhou friends tell me?